Le Cannet: from Bonnard to the lanes of Bellevue

In the museum, the rooms and gardens Bonnard painted

Bonnard bought Le Bosquet, in the hills above Le Cannet, in 1926. He settled there permanently in 1939 and lived there until 1947. The house, garden and surrounding landscapes recur in his work, informed by walks, sketches and notes.

The museum occupies a different building, the former Hôtel Saint-Vianney. You come here for the paintings, rather than to visit the rooms at Le Bosquet. Check the current exhibition before your visit: some of the permanent collection may be taken off display during temporary exhibitions.

In the galleries, I suggest choosing a few paintings and returning to them after a first look around. A table, a window, foliage: these familiar subjects are a way into the way Bonnard arranges colour. With friends who rarely visit museums, try comparing what catches each person's eye in the same painting, without first looking for the “right” explanation.

Rue Saint-Sauveur: stop at the craft shops

After the museum, walk up towards Rue Saint-Sauveur. The craft shop windows offer another way of looking, this time at an object or a material. If you want to meet a particular maker, check their opening hours beforehand; otherwise, let the open doors and window displays guide your stops.

Look for the Saint-Sauveur chapel, associated with the work of Tobiasse, and Peynet's Mur des Amoureux opposite. Keep both stops in your route before continuing to Bellevue. They introduce other artists connected with Le Cannet, beyond the museum that brought you here.

At Bellevue, book a table above the rooftops

Place Bellevue looks towards the sea, the Lérins Islands and the Estérel. I recommend making it the end of your morning route if you plan to have lunch in the neighbourhood. Book your table before visiting the museum, then make your way to the square through the lanes.

Before sitting down, look for the Oranger du Patrimoine and the statue of Victorien Sardou. The first tells the story of Le Cannet's founding families; the second recalls the playwright whose family was connected with the town. Start with the view, then give these details a little attention too.

The false windows of Rue des Calvys and the stones of Rue des Voûtes

After lunch, take a short detour along Rue des Calvys to look at the houses with painted false windows. Head back towards Saint-Sauveur, then up to the former town hall at number 396, identifiable by its clock and bell tower. Place des Paramideaux and Rue des Voûtes complete the walk.

In Rue des Voûtes, look at the foot of the houses: they rest on large blocks of stone. It is easy to miss if you only look at the façades. The tourist office route will help you find your way through these passages; it is not waymarked.

Bonnard's walking route, for another day in walking shoes

If you would like to see more of the painter's landscapes, save “Sur les pas de Bonnard” for another half-day. Reproductions on display panels accompany the walk uphill, near Le Bosquet. The route does not include a visit inside the house.

The full route is 4.5 kilometres and takes roughly 1 hour 30 minutes to 2 hours; the shorter, 3-kilometre version takes about an hour. There are hills to climb. After the museum, I recommend choosing either this walk or the old quarter, according to your guests' energy, rather than trying to do both.

The museum is at 16 boulevard Sadi Carnot. Usual opening hours are 10 am to 6 pm from September to June, extending to 8 pm in July and August. It is closed on Mondays and during exhibition changeovers. Come for the neighbourhood on a Monday; to combine Bonnard with Bellevue, choose another day and check the exhibition before you leave.